Saturday, August 20, 2016, was my sixth day in Dublin. I couldn’t wait to get started on my adventure today! We took the DART to Sandycove, about a 15-minute ride or so. From the station, we made our way along the waterfront and walked to the James Joyce Tower. Some history about the tower: James Joyce stayed here for a short time, and it is the location where Chapter 1, Telemachus, in James Joyce’s Ulysses begins. The Tower has so many James Joyce artifacts and displays. If you are a fan of literature, the James Joyce Tower is worth checking out.
If you click on one of the pictures below, it will turn into a gallery which you might find easier to view.
This James Joyce tree greeted us as we made our way towards the waterfront en route to the Tower in Sandycove.
From the waterfront, looking north to Dun Laoghaire.
Monument to James Joyce along the waterfront.
Looking at Dun Laoghaire again.
Getting closer!
The water was so blue and inviting.
There were many people swimming. The water is cold, and the air was in the 60’s. People didn’t mind!
Sign at the “Forty Foot.”
Women were not allowed to swim at Forty Foot, but that changed in the 1970’s.
The Forty Foot
Open now! Admission free!
Me outside the James Joyce Tower
About the Joyce Tower
Flag flying on top of the Tower. It is the flag from the province Munster, where James Joyce’s father came from.
From the top.
From the top, looking back along the route we walked. Look at that water.
The tower is a “Martello” Tower. These were built during the 19th century all along the Irish coast to keep a watch out for invaders during the French Revolutionary War. A canon used to be on these tracks.
James Joyce’s Guitar
James Joyce’s Truck
What might have been on the table when James Joyce stayed here in 1904.
The “black panther,” referenced by Stephen Dedalus in Ulysses. Legend says that when Joyce stayed here, a roommate had a dream about a panther coming out of the fireplace. The roommate supposedly shot a real gun into the fireplace, and that’s what made Joyce leave the Tower for good.
How the room might have looked in 1904.
How the room might have looked in 1904.
James Joyce’s drawing of Leopold Bloom.
Postcard from Joyce to a friend.
Postcard from Joyce to a friend.
One of the framed pieces of art featuring the famous Joyce quote, “Yes.”
When Joyce died in 1941, sculptor Paul Speck made two plaster death masks of Joyce’s face. This is one of them.
James Joyce Biography
Leaving the tower, this was the view. Stunning!
Looking down as we left the tower.
The James Joyce Tower when we left. Amazing visit.
It was amazing to be in the same spot as James Joyce. My footprints walked in his footprints, and also walked in those of Stephen Dedalus and Buck Mulligan. If you would like to learn more about the locations mentioned in today’s post, please visit these links:
*** All photographs that are a part of this gallery were taken by me, Jill Ocone, on August 20, 2016 and are copyrighted. It is illegal to reproduce or to take credit for my intellectual property contained on this post. Thank you for your compliance.
For the Joycean fan, Day 3 was perhaps one of the two most important days of my mission. Despite the rain, it was a memorable day. Today’s post will feature photographs from the first half of Day 3 (August 17, 2016) along the Talbot Street area to the James Joyce Centre. If you click on one of the pictures below, it will turn into a gallery which you might find easier to view.
I think I found her! She’s definitely in charge! Sign outside one of the conference rooms at Tara Towers Hotel.
Talbot Street Memorial to those lost in 1974 bombings.
Connelly Exterior along Talbot Street.
The Celt Traditional Irish Pub on Talbot Street. I didn’t go in, just liked the way it looked.
Another memorial found on Talbot Street to the 1974 bombing victims.
The Spire of Dublin. It is 120 m. high and is at the intersection of Earl St. N (Talbot) and O’Connell Streets.
The James Joyce Statue on Earl Street N. opposite The Dublin Spire. The woman sitting there is not a set-up. She was actually drinking right from the wine bottle off and on for about an hour!
Inscription on the James Joyce Statue.
The James Joyce Statue, sans wino.
The James Joyce Centre, 35 North Great Georges Street, Dublin.
There are photographs and other displays throughout the floors of the James Joyce Centre.
“What did you do during the Great War?” “I wrote Ulysses, what did you do?”
Quote from Araby on the third floor.
James Joyce Bust.
Appropriate quote from Ulysses.
Another appropriate quote from “Gas from a Burner.”
Display of furniture and items from the apartment of Paul Leon, one of Joyce’s friends in Paris. Joyce and friends met at this table to discuss literature and life.
A mockup of Joyce’s bedroom. A small plaque explained that in quarters such as this is where Joyce wrote. Not in solitude, not in a “writing space,” but here, in family spaces.
A mockup of Joyce’s bedroom.
A mockup of Joyce’s bedroom.
A mockup of Joyce’s bedroom.
One of the interactive ipad-style displays found throughout the Centre.
Meeting room on the second floor of the James Joyce Centre.
Adjacent to the second floor meeting room is a fireplace room containing “Sketching Ulysses” art display by Emma Byrne.
Outside in the courtyard, you will find the real door from 7 Eccles Street, Leopold Bloom’s residence in Ulysses. It is on display with a mural collage, which I found to be very compelling.
Plaque next to the door from 7 Eccles Street.
The collage mural in the courtyard
Part of the collage mural, close up
Part of the collage mural, close up
Part of the collage mural, close up
Part of the collage mural, close up
Part of the collage mural, close up
Part of the collage mural, close up
Part of the collage mural, close up
Sign explaining about Joyce and 7 Eccles Street.
If you are interested in learning more about today’s locations, please visit these links:
*** All photographs that are a part of this gallery were taken by me, Jill Ocone, on August 17, 2016 and are copyrighted. It is illegal to reproduce or to take credit for my intellectual property contained on this post. Thank you for your compliance.
Today we will look back at the second part of Dublin Day 2. I think we did the most walking on Day 2, and while my legs were screaming in pain by the end of the day, I was glad the reason they were screaming was because of such a wonderful day versus hurting for nothing at all. Surprisingly, the pain subsided while I slept, which hardly ever happens. I know I had some special spirits looking over me, and I like to think they played a hand in my better than expected health throughout the week. Day 2 Part 2 takes us through Merrion Square through our storytelling dinner at The Brazen Head Pub, Ireland’s oldest pub. If you click on one of the pictures below, it will turn into a gallery which you might find easier to view. Cheers!
Oscar Wilde Statue, Merrion Park, Dublin
One of the many quotes found on a marble tribute by the Oscar Wilde statue.
The former site of Finn’s Hotel on Leinster Street, where James Joyce met Nora Barnacle (his future wife) in 1904.
Front door at the former Finn’s Hotel on Leinster Street
Inside walkway at the front door of Finn’s Hotel
Funny sign seen in the window of a store called Knobs and Knockers. My friend bought it!
O’Neill’s Bar on Suffolk Street
Street performers near the Molly Malone Statue, corner of Nassau and Suffolk Street. Yes, those are real people.
Molly Malone statue, Nassau and Suffolk Streets right outside the “Old Stone Church.” She was a fishmonger, as well as let’s say, a “well-known lady of pleasure.”
This was a mistake when my camera was clipped to my belt loop.
How disappointed was I! This is Bewley’s Oriental Cafe on Grafton Street, under renovation. I guess I’ll just have to go back again so I can sit on the James Joyce balcony!
More street performers on Grafton Street.
Plaque on Nassau Street
One of the many Costa Coffee Shops. This one is on College Green.
The Dame Tavern, Dame Street.
Dame Street
Dublin Castle. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to tour it because we were running late for our dinner reservations
Queen of Tarts Cafe on Dame Street. I liked the way this looked!
You can find pavers like this all around Dublina, a Viking and Medieval museum. I wish I had time to check it out!
The Brazen Head, where we enjoyed a storytelling dinner. It is known as “Ireland’s Oldest Pub” and dates back to 1198.
Funny weather forecasting stone at The Brazen Head.
In the outdoor bar area of The Brazen Head. See the feather above New York? That’s SHE. No doubt about it.
The two musicians during the storytelling dinner. They were difficult to understand, which made it even more enjoyable! Our host’s name was Phillip and he told us stories about faeries, Balor the Evil Eye, Brian O’Connor and more. See links below for a .pdf copy of the stories!
If you would like to learn more about the sights I saw on Day 2 Part 2, here are links for you:
I hope that you visit tomorrow for Dublin, Day 3, Part 1 (including James Joyce statue and James Joyce Centre). Until then, be well my friend!
*** All photographs that are a part of this gallery were taken by me, Jill Ocone, on August 16,2016 and are copyrighted. It is illegal to reproduce or to take credit for my intellectual property contained on this post. Thank you for your compliance.
August 16, 2016 was truly a marvelous day. I took so many pictures though that I need to break Day 2 in Dublin into shorter posts. Today’s post takes me from the hotel to Sweny’s Pharmacy, which is near Trinity College. If you click on one of the pictures below, it will turn into a gallery which you might find easier to view.
Looking south to my hotel, here I am in the Booterstown Nature Reserve.
This house was once owned by Irish Tenor John McCormack. It is 2 blocks or so south from the Hotel and is listed for $3.6 Million Euros, which is a little over $4 Million in US Dollars.
The Punch Bowl Restaurant and Pub
Booterstown Dart Station, looking North
Connelly Station in Dublin
Universal Links on Human Rights is a memorial sculpture created in 1995 by Tony O’Malley. It is near the Customs House.
The Custom House
One of the tallest buildings in Ireland, Liberty Hall, with a mural commemorating the 100th Anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising.
Close-up of one of the sculptures in the Famine Memorial, found along the River Liffey at North Dock.
Famine Memorial along the River Liffey, North Dock, Dublin.
Famine Memorial, North Dock along the RIver Liffey, Dublin. Created in 1997 by Norma Smurfit, sculpture is a commemorative work dedicated to those Irish people forced to emigrate during the 19th century Irish Famine.
World Poverty Stone, located on North Dock along the River Liffey near the Sean O’Casey Bridge.
The Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship Famine Museum along the River Liffey. The original Jeanie Johnston was built in 1847. As the famine gripped Ireland, the owners carried fleeing Irish emigrants to North America.
The Samuel Beckett Bridge, which opened in 2009. It is named after Samuel Beckett was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature, 1969.
Looking up at the Samuel Beckett Bridge.
Graffiti along the River Liffey
Bike rental kiosks were found all over Dublin, and I saw many people using them.
Merchant Seamen Memorial along the River Liffey in City Quay. The memorial is dedicated to those Irish Seafarers lost whilst serving on Irish merchant ships during World War II.
One of the many “Bin The Poo” signs, urging dog owners to clean up after their dogs. Those who truly know me know that it took a lot of “courage” for me to not only take this photo, but to write this caption.
A magpie
Irish Post Box
Looking at the train bridge at Pearse Station
St. Andrew Church on Westland Row
21 Westland Row. Oscar Wilde was born here.
Sweny’s Joycean Pharmacy, 1 Lincoln Place, Dublin. It is here that Leopold Bloom bought Lemon Soap in Ulysses. I did the same.
Photo of James Joyce outside Sweny’s.
Inside Sweny Pharmacy. It is no longer an actual pharmacy. Volunteers man the store each day, most in costume. The store now contains James Joyce books and period decor. There are also readings and more.
*** All photographs that are a part of this gallery were taken by me, Jill Ocone, on August 16, 2016 and are copyrighted. It is illegal to reproduce or to take credit for my intellectual property contained on this post. Thank you for your compliance.
“Eyes, pale as the sea the wind had freshened, paler, firm and prudent. The seas’ ruler, he gazed southward over the bay, empty save for the smokeplume of the mailboat, vague on the bright skyline, and a sail tacking by the Muglins.” – James Joyce, Ulysses (Episode 1 – Telemachus)
Wow. Just Wow.
I now understand the magnitude of the above quote from Ulysses, and so much more.
What an amazing experience I had while in Dublin!
I’m sitting here trying to absorb everything I saw, heard, felt, tasted, and learned, while contemplating what might come next along this journey.
I have so many photos and so many stories to share. However, the universe has other plans: somehow the charging port on my computer stopped working while I was away. Very weird, since I left my computer at home unplugged for the whole time I was gone, and nobody else used it. Anyway, my computer is at the local repair hospital.
In the meantime, I am writing and posting from my phone for the time being.
One of the best parts of the week was having a poor wifi signal at the hotel. With an international phone plan that did not include data, I was forced to abandon technology. Which was GOOD. I filled my notebook with handwritten comments, thoughts, responses and more. Old school! And I think everything was more meaningful that way.
I am very grateful that my health cooperated for the most part while in Ireland. I’m still adjusting to the time change back here at home and I’m having some issues today health wise; I’d much rather feel like this here versus while away.
So, what did I do? In a nutshell:
I lived as a Dubliner for a week. I walked in the footsteps left by James Joyce (and his characters), Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats, and Seamus Heaney.
I walked up the steepest hill I ever climbed (which was a challenge) to see 5,000+ year old artwork left inside a cave. I completed a pilgrimage to the Hill of Tara and the Stone of Destiny. I saw medieval stone towers, stone Celtic crosses, and the decapitated head of Saint Oliver miraculously preserved in a bog.
I walked over the Samuel Beckett Bridge, saw the Famine Memorial, and went to a storytelling dinner at The Brazen Head Pub.
I laughed a lot with my traveling companion as we journeyed through downtown Dublin and suburbs Sandycove, Dun Laoghaire, Howth, and Bray.
Most of all, I abandoned my fear by fulfilling my mission from the universe while honoring the spirit of my treasured friend. I hope my eyes showed her everything she could have ever wanted to see with her own eyes.
My journey to Dublin might be over, but I think the real story is just beginning…
Here are some pictures from my phone to give you an idea of some of the things I saw and did while in Ireland. Trust me, more is definitely coming! Thank you for following! 🙂
Buying lemon soap at Sweny’s Pharmacy, just like Leopold Bloom did in UlyssesStatue of Molly Malonethe Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Square ParkJames Joyce statue on Talbot Street. Check out the gal on the right.The actual door from 7 Eccles Street, Leopold Bloom’s address in Ulysses. The door is on display at the James Joyce Center.Outside Trim Castle, with “Sir Gallahad.” Trim Castle was the castle in the Mel Gibsom movie Braveheart.At the James Joyce Tower in Sandycove. This is where his book Ulysses begins.Along the Irish Sea in Bray
“Every life is in many days, day after day. We walk through ourselves, meeting robbers, ghosts, giants, old men, young men, wives, widows, brothers-in-love. But always meeting ourselves.”
― James Joyce, Ulysses
Today is Bloomsday, so let’s celebrate! And I’ve got a special treat for you.
Chances are you have no idea what I am talking about. Bloomsday? What is that? Another politically correct holiday?
No, sir!!
June 16, 1904 is the day that Leopold Bloom wandered throughout Dublin in James Joyce’s book Ulysses. Leopold made many stops along his route, and at times, was joined by others including Stephen Dedalus.
Joyce enthusiasts celebrate Bloomsday every year to mark not only the anniversary of Leopold’s journey but also to celebrate all things James Joyce.
And Bloomsday is celebrated worldwide, not just in Dublin! Take a look around at local events and you might be surprised that a celebration is being held near you, should you be so inclined.
Friends and family know I’ve got a cosmic thing going on with researching James Joyce and Dublin. I am preparing to see many of Leopold’s sights (among others) with my own eyes in August. The universe and a special spirit have infused this calling into me, and I must go to Dublin in search of ….. well, I’m not sure, but I know I have to go.
To celebrate James Joyce, Bloomsday, Ulysses, Leopold Bloom, Dublin, Stephen Dedalus, and that special spirit, I created a Bloomsday/James Joyce printable for you.
